Sunday, November 16, 2008

Rear Wheel Bearing

I got to the point of installing my rear wheel bearings today. I didn't want to drift them in as that went wrong for me last time. So I built myself a little bearing press installer thingy.
I cut a square of aluminum from 3/16ths stock I had, and I also cut out a circle that is just slightly smaller than the out bearing race for the front wheel bearing. I drilled a 3/4" hole in both of the aluminum pieces.

I'm using a nice bell reducer coupling that I bought for pressing in the rear wheel bearings. I also bought some 1/2" all thread and cut it down to size. I double-nutted one end and use a single nut on the other end to tighten it down. Works great. No hammering.

Suzuki recommends installing the right bearing first. The right bearing should be seated completely against the seat. Then you install the spacer, then you do the left one which actually doesn't touch the bearing seat. I greased the entire inside of the wheel where the spacer sits, even though I have sealed bearings. I didn't pack it with grease, but I did put a thin layer all inside. It can't hurt and can only help.

I like to spray my hands with a silicone lubricant before working with heavy grease. This keeps the grease from getting down in my skin and makes washing up much easier.

I used Fuchs Silkolene Pro RG2 Synthetic Grease. This is similar to standard NLGI #2 lithium grease, just costs more.

Step 1: Apply a thin layer of grease to the bearing sleeve and seat and inner sections where the spacer goes.

Step 2: Place bearing on wheel.

Step 3: Setup my new press tool.
Step 4: Drive bearing in slowly, keeping even progress.

Step 5: One bearing down.
Step 6: Grease spacer, apply grease to inside of wheel hub.

Step 7: Press in left bearing using same technique. What's important here is that you don't press out the right side bearing. This bearing doesn't touch the seat, but rather, rests against the spacer leaving a small clearance. If you continue to drive in the bearing without having the right side bearing secured, it can press out the right side bearing, taking up the gap on the left side, and creating one on the right side.

That's about it. I very carefully removed any burrs, bumps and uneven spots from the bearing seats and spacer in preparation for this, using sandpaper and a utility knife. You can quickly cause more harm than good with the utility knife if you don't be careful.

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