Monday, January 11, 2010

Working on the wiring harness

I just finished Season 3 of Prison Break on DVD. Wasn't getting much done while heavily involved in this. I don't own a TV so I wait a few years then frantically watch a hundred episodes of something like LOST, or Prison Break until I can't take it anymore. This happens when I run out of books to read or can't stand to re-read a book I already own. I've read most of my books at least twice and many more than 7 times.

So, Prison Break out the way for the time being, onto full blown evenings poring over my harness! Got myself into a little more than I bargained for on this one. The only way I've been able to even start this work is to dive in head-first and do NOTHING else. I usually have multiple projects going at the same time, e.g. right now I'm working on my gas tank, gauge bracket, control cables, and undertail. Whoa, no wonder one thing never gets finished. It was time for electrical so it's all electrical now until the harness goes onto the bike.

Removing the side-stand switch and neutral switch took some thinking. I'm not just cutting them out and splicing the old wires together; I'm making it as if they were never there. I'm also adapting new left and right handlebar controls, adding a SPDT relay for headlight power, adding a new ignition module, new gauges, new LED turnsignals, new dash indicator lights etc.

Here's my headlight relay setup (standard SPDT relay wiring diagram):

Here's the sequence and explanation:
Pin 30 gets power directly from the headlight fuse. When the ignition is turned on, Pin 30 is hot and voltage goes to my low beam via Pin 87a, all the time. I've got voltage going to my left-hand controls via the "signal" fused circuit, when I flip the high-beam switch or pass switch, this voltage passes to Pin 85, energizing the coil and switching the headlight voltage from normally closed position (NC) to pin 87, which is the high beam, cutting power to the low beam. Pin 86 goes to common ground.

There's two things I'm a bit uncertain about:
(1) having the relay control voltage sitting at the handlebar switch with nowhere to go until I flip the high beam switch. Is this a problem?
(2) I've read that I should put a diode across the coil so that when the coil field collapses, I don't send a pulse back through to the handlebar controls, or back down the ground wire...

Here's my latest revision of the wiring diagram:

-S

2 comments:

Eric said...

what ignition switch are you going to use, the original or aftermarket?

Stephen said...

Original ignition switch and keyway. Kill switch and controls from Suzuki GSXRs of varying years.